Jedes Dengelwerkzeug braucht den passenden Unterbau, um optimal zu funktionieren. Dabei gilt unter anderem das jahrhundertealte Schmiedegesetz: Masse wirkt! Jeder Hammerschlag soll die größtmögliche Treibwirkung auf die Schneide der Sense erzielen – ganz gleich, ob mit dem Schlagdengelapparat, dem steirischen Dengelwerkzeug oder dem oberösterreichischen Dengelwerkzeug gearbeitet wird. Auf Basis langjähriger Praxiserfahrung wurde dieser Dengelbock aus massivem Hartholz gefertigt und sorgt für die nötige Stabilität sowie eine effiziente Kraftübertragung beim Dengeln. Zusatzempfehlung: Für einen optimalen Stand und zusätzliche Stabilität beim Arbeiten empfehlen wir die Standmatte für Dengelbock. Sie verbessert die Standfestigkeit und unterstützt ein sicheres, komfortables Dengeln.
This flat peening anvil is used for Upper Austrian peening.
Conversion kit for seated foot operation (squeeze-peening jig)
This narrow peening anvil is used for Styrian peening. It is equipped with a support table.
The hammer is used in combination with a narrow peening anvil for Styrian peening.
This scythe peening hammer is used in combination with a flat peening anvil for the Upper Austrian style of peening.
The gold peening cap is used for the final sharpening of the cutting edge. During this process, the blade is peened to a thickness of approximately 0.2 mm. Peening below a blade thickness of 0.2 mm is not recommended, as it could cause hairline cracks to form along the edge. When peening with both caps, make sure that the hammer blow hits the cap directly above the cutting edge. Generally, multiple peening passes are better than trying to thin out the scythe blade in just a single pass.
The silver peening cap is used for rough-peening. It works on the back section of the primary bevel (about 2–4 mm behind the cutting edge), thinning out the blade and preparing it so that the gold peening cap can then be used to peen the front edge (1–2 mm) thin and sharp. Ideally, you use the silver cap to draw the blade out to a thickness of about 0.5 to 0.3 mm at the cutting edge. When peening with both caps, make sure that the hammer blow hits the cap directly above the cutting edge. Generally, multiple peening passes are better than trying to thin out the scythe blade in just a single pass.
Important: Only select this service for scythes with a length of 35cm to 75cm! Essentially, all scythes we sell are pre-peened by machine multiple times and coated with anti-rust lacquer. With this optional service, the scythe becomes even sharper and is particularly well-suited for young and green grass. We perform the following work steps: The anti-rust lacquer is removed from the cutting edge area by grinding. The cutting edge is professionally and uniformly thin-peened by hand. Even if new scythe blades are labeled "ready to mow" (whether ours or from other brands), they only truly become ready after the anti-rust lacquer has been removed.
Important: Only select this service for scythes with a length of 80cm to 90cm! Essentially, all scythes we sell are pre-peened by machine multiple times and coated with anti-rust lacquer. With this optional service, the scythe becomes even sharper and is particularly well-suited for young and green grass. We perform the following work steps: The anti-rust lacquer is removed from the cutting edge area by grinding. The cutting edge is professionally and uniformly thin-peened by hand. Even if new scythe blades are labeled "ready to mow" (whether ours or from other brands), they only truly become ready after the anti-rust lacquer has been removed.
Important: Only select this service for scythes with a length of 95 cm to 135 cm! Essentially, all scythes we sell are pre-peened by machine multiple times and coated with anti-rust lacquer. With this optional service, the scythe becomes even sharper and is particularly well-suited for young and green grass. We perform the following work steps: The anti-rust lacquer is removed from the cutting edge area by grinding. The cutting edge is professionally and uniformly thin-peened by hand. Even if new scythe blades are labeled "ready to mow" (whether ours or from other brands), they only truly become ready after the anti-rust lacquer has been removed.
With this scythe peening jig, you can work on the primary bevel (the 'dengel'), which is the approximately 5 mm wide area directly along the scythe's cutting edge. During the peening process, a geometrically flat cutting wedge is created through cold forming, which increases both the hardness and toughness of the edge. This ensures an ideal mowing result. The scope of delivery includes the anvil with a guide pin and anvil spike, as well as the silver peening cap for rough-peening and the gold peening cap for final sharpening of the cutting edge.
This proven original Tyrolean squeeze-peening jig creates an excellent cutting edge. The scythe blade is inserted between the jaws and squeezed thin using leverage. If the scythe's edge is too thick and does not fit between the jaws, it should be slightly beveled with a file or on a water-cooled grindstone. Working with an electric angle grinder usually leads to overheating and therefore a loss of the scythe blade's hardness. Utilizing foot assistance makes the peening process easier and results in a very good primary bevel ('dengel'). The width of the peened edge can be varied. The conversion kit for seated foot operation is not included in the scope of delivery. You can order it here.